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  1. #1
    Saab Nut
    Join Date
    06 Mar 2011
    Location
    Westport, Pennsylvania, United States
    Posts
    410
    Saab(s)
    93 9000 CSE, 85 900T

    Weather Strip Source

    A common issue for the C900 is shrinking weather strip around the door frame and rear window. I was able to fix the door issue by marking the top dead center with some painters tape on the frame and on the weather strip. I then removed the strip which required removing the threshold plate as well. I used a shot filled plastic hammer to gently close the gap, cleaned the strip and then re installed it starting from TDC and working my way down both sides. You can see the shrinkage at each end of the threshold with 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch less strip under each side of the threshold.

    The rear window presents a different issue. It's on piece and if you worked the material down from TDC you would end up with a gap at the bottom center of the window which could be a source for wind noise and water entrance.

    I am wondering if anyone else has solved this. I see 2 scenarios.

    1. Find an alternate source of weather strip and glue the bottom mating joint together

    2. Get a 3rd piece from a wrecker and section in the gap.

    Anxious to hear what others have done.

  2. #2
    Saab Nut
    Join Date
    06 Mar 2011
    Location
    Westport, Pennsylvania, United States
    Posts
    410
    Saab(s)
    93 9000 CSE, 85 900T

  3. #3
    Paul A
    Saab Nut
    Join Date
    11 Mar 2011
    Location
    West London and Wiltshire, UK
    Posts
    251
    Saab(s)
    T16 '93 Ruby - T16 '94 Vert Ruby
    Quote Originally Posted by jskrebs View Post
    Don't think that would be suitable. Completely different section. Two solutions that I know of; Buy an expensive one from Scandix - SKANDIX Shop Saab parts: Window scraper, Side window Passengers side 6998314 (1015236) or use the Woolies section, which I did - Woolies Trim - Window Weatherstrip FYI The clips Woolies supply for the strip are useless for the Saab. The original clips are stainless and should be reuseable.

  4. #4
    Saab Nut
    Join Date
    06 Mar 2011
    Location
    Westport, Pennsylvania, United States
    Posts
    410
    Saab(s)
    93 9000 CSE, 85 900T
    Thanks Paul,

    I have used the Skandix pieces before.

    I was actually referring to the rear wing window seals. When they shrink the corners start to leak air and water. They are a bulb type seal.

    Jeff

  5. #5
    Paul A
    Saab Nut
    Join Date
    11 Mar 2011
    Location
    West London and Wiltshire, UK
    Posts
    251
    Saab(s)
    T16 '93 Ruby - T16 '94 Vert Ruby
    Quote Originally Posted by jskrebs View Post
    Thanks Paul,

    I have used the Skandix pieces before.

    I was actually referring to the rear wing window seals. When they shrink the corners start to leak air and water. They are a bulb type seal.

    Jeff
    Sorry Jeff - didn't read your post clearly enough. Maybe that Fairchild one will do the job.
    I don't think Saab tried very hard to seal that window. After all it all drains down into the rear quarter panel where the roof just behind the window drains to. Just make sure that the quarter panel drain spout is unclogged, just underneath the panel in front of the rear wheel. A quick squeeze with your fingers does it, and they clog easily.

    Paul

  6. #6

    Join Date
    22 Nov 2010
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    2
    Saab(s)
    '83 900T 4dr, '87 900S 2dr, '88 900S 4dr, '91 900S 3dr, '93 900S 3dr. '86 900S 2dr in mid-demo.
    I've tried stretching and re-seating the rear window seal like you did for your door seals, but not cutting, leaving it as one piece. Mixed results but not good after a few weeks. Generally difficult to get the old seal to grip the rim well enough (even after hammer-closing the gap) to hold the stretch.

    I seem to recall reading turbocon86 describing, in a thread on TSL, his success with cutting it at the bottom and adding a short section from a donor seal. I intend to try this method on the '93 900S I picked up recently. With this method, I would use some sealant at the joints and some smaller thin tubing inside the inner section to keep it together (like at the joint in the trunk/hatch seal).

    I certainly agree with fixing that seal. The water easily comes in and runs down toward the rear seat.

  7. #7
    Paul A
    Saab Nut
    Join Date
    11 Mar 2011
    Location
    West London and Wiltshire, UK
    Posts
    251
    Saab(s)
    T16 '93 Ruby - T16 '94 Vert Ruby
    If you stretch the moulding it tends to make it narrower and it often creeps back. Sticking accurately cut lengths together is very successful using cyanoaclylate (superglue) adhesive.

 

 

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