Brake Pedal Sticks Down 2010-11 9-5 9650 Brakes Remain Applied or Lights On

[jneilon]

Maybe it's because the thread started out talking about the 2011 9-5 since GM took over, so maybe accessing the brake assembly is completely different.

[fred]

I finally got around to revisiting my 9-5 sticky brake issue. I took the car to a local independent for an assessment. The tech told me it appears the Chevy Malibu of the same year has the same issue (which we already knew); so, he took a chance and ordered a replacement bushing. I am scheduled to leave the car at the shop this Friday. I will let you know how this turns out. We did discuss whether we should see if we can make another bushing of better material. I do really love this car....hope this works! I hope to keep this ride a long time.

[fred]

well, the Malibu bushing did not work. It was actually too large and would not fit. The tech told me that the correct term listed by Saab is a grommet vs. a bushing. Also, the item appears to composed of a hardened rubber and therefore a metal one would not work....so much for fabricating one. I will keep searching but there's no way I want to pay hundreds of dollars for a grommet that will just go bad again in short order.

Back to the drawing board!

[jneilon]

please post when you find a solution. I'm still just "towing up" the break pedal when it starts to stick but its a pain in the ass.

[maintower]

I've just got this issue fixed on my AERO XWD - and it works :-)
The set of brake pedals is a standard GM part used for OPEL and Vauxhall Insignia, hence it is available as such from the official sparepart channels.

[fred]

Unfortunately, the correct pedal box for my 6-speed manual is no longer available.... see this link! I either need to live with the condition, try taking it to another higher end shop for alternatives, or selling the car. I still intend to try alternatives because I really like this car and it is paid for. Perhaps more to come.

http://www.jimellissaabparts.com/pro.../13331947.html

[jneilon]

Fred, it's a bit of an unorthodox "fix", but on my 2011 turbo 4, I took a low tension spring and attached it to the top of the brake pedal arm so that it would pull the brake pedal up that last 1/2 or so. It gives no extra resistance when applying the brake, and seems to be resolving the problem.

[fred]

Fred, it's a bit of an unorthodox "fix", but on my 2011 turbo 4, I took a low tension spring and attached it to the top of the brake pedal arm so that it would pull the brake pedal up that last 1/2 or so. It gives no extra resistance when applying the brake, and seems to be resolving the problem.

Can you take a pic? What spring did you use? Where did you buy it? I have several cars and don't drive the car more than a 3-5k per year. I just had the oil changed and tank filled, stabilizer added, and put it away for the winter. I could do the spring work over the winter some time.

Thanks for feedback!

Happy Holidays!

Fred

[Yamarocket630]

Fred, it's a bit of an unorthodox "fix", but on my 2011 turbo 4, I took a low tension spring and attached it to the top of the brake pedal arm so that it would pull the brake pedal up that last 1/2 or so. It gives no extra resistance when applying the brake, and seems to be resolving the problem.

I did the exact same "fix" about a year and half ago with no more occurrences of the brake lights staying on or Service ESP messages. I used a parking brake cable return spring I had laying around as an extra part from a drum brake service kit. Dont ask what vehicle it was supposed to fit... I dont know. It had been in my "spare parts collection" for years. The only side affect is bit of "spring" noise is noticeable when the radio is down low. It reminds me of the noise the closer spring made on our house storm door when I was a kid.

[fred]

Stuck the car in heated storage for the winter. When I get a chance I will be back to it. Thanks for the info folks! I will repost when I make further progress.

Happy New year!