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06 October 2010 #1
- Join Date
- 02 Aug 2010
- Posts
- 337
Saab 9-5 Crankshaft Position Sensor - CPS
Information from the Saab WIS:
To remove
1. Undo the exhaust manifold heat shield.
2. Undo the screw securing the heat shield and sensor.
3. Detach the sensor and O-ring.
4. Follow the sensor connecting cable and undo the clip on the water pipe.
5. Detach the connector from the holder.
6. Unplug the connector.
7. Change the sensor.
To fit
1. Fit the sensor provisionally so that the cable runs along the water pipe. Change the O-ring if necessary and lubricate it with engine oil.
2. Spray the connector with Kontakt 61 (part no. 30 04 520), press together the connector and fit it in the holder.
3. Secure the cables with the retaining clip. Take care not to pinch or damage the cables with the clip.
4. Press in the sensor and screw it on with the O-ring fitted together with the heat shield. Make sure the O-ring is positioned correctly so that the sensor bottoms in the engine block. Otherwise, there is a risk of the sensor mounting lug breaking off.
5. Lubricate the screw for the exhaust manifold heat shield with Molykote 1000 or equivalent (part no. 30 20 271) and fit the heat shield.
Tightening torque, nut, heat shield 20 Nm (15 lbf ft)
6. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.Last edited by nordwulf; 08 November 2010 at 16:45.
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29 July 2013 #2
- Join Date
- 08 Jul 2013
- Location
- Georgia
- Posts
- 28
- Saab(s)
- 2002 9-5 2.3L Linear Turbo
Getting the Torx30 screw out proved to be a very difficult task. In order to get the bit into the screw correctly, there's only a limited amount of room before you run into the downpipe. I tried a flexible ratcheting extension, an elbow extension, and neither worked as I couldn't get the bit to stay in the screw head. After three days, the only thing that worked was my wife's small hands getting down there and using ratchet that allowed the bit to sit all the way through. Similar to this:
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01 August 2013 #3
- Join Date
- 01 Aug 2013
- Location
- So Cal
- Posts
- 11
- Saab(s)
- 2003 9-5 Arc Wagon 3.0T
Great write-up!
New owner of a 2003 9-5 3.0t Wagon with 83k miles that is in fantastic shape - The previous owner did every single service/repair the dealership recommended. The CPS was already replaced once by a dealership ~30 k miles ago. It seems to have a minor hot start issue (have to cycle the key on/off 3 times before it starts - first two times it just cranks). I'd like to see if the CPS is going bad again. Is this the same procedure I'd use on the 3.0t? Also, beyond the Torx 30, what other tools do I need? Thanks in advance.Last edited by SCSaab9-5; 01 August 2013 at 23:17.
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01 August 2013 #4
Jeffrey Master SaabTech/Moderator
- Join Date
- 25 Oct 2010
- Location
- Point Pleasant, PA
- Posts
- 1,316
- Saab(s)
- - 86' 9KT - 95' 9K Custom CS - 06' 9-3 Combi - 07' 9-7X Arc - 08' 9-3 Convertible - 08' 9-3 TurboX -
Access that torque from the bottom easily going up at it. Use a standard snap-on (or craftsman) T30 socket and either a stubby 3/8 ratchet or a fine tooth flex head long ratchet. Total job should not take more then 45 minutes in a driveway with ramps.
Last edited by Burnsside42; 02 August 2013 at 00:42.
European Motor Services, LLC - Point Pleasant, PA 18950 - www.europeanmotorsvc.com
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01 August 2013 #5
- Join Date
- 01 Aug 2013
- Location
- So Cal
- Posts
- 11
- Saab(s)
- 2003 9-5 Arc Wagon 3.0T
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18 December 2016 #6
- Join Date
- 02 Oct 2016
- Location
- Massachusetts
- Posts
- 10
- Saab(s)
- 2008 Saab 9-5
My '08 9-5 died after idling for maybe 5 minutes and would not restart. 40 minutes later it started just fine like nothing had happened. No codes.
So I just replaced the CPS and found it to be a moderate PITA. Thought I'd leave a few suggestions to help the next person.
I worked from the top and removed the upstream O2 sensor to improve access. I did not disconnect the O2 sensor harness but marked the hex of the O2 sensor and counted the turns as I unscrewed it so I'd know how many twists to put in the harness lead when I reinstalled it. Four turns.
From the top I used a Snap-On 3/8" drive T30 bit attached to a Snap-On 3/8" drive universal joint and then a long 3/8" extension. I used a long pry bar to bend the heat shield slightly and I was then able to get the Torx bit into the screw with no difficulty and it came right out.
When installing the new sensor, the trick to get the o-ring properly seated is to lube it with engine oil and position it half way down the shaft of the new sensor so it is pushed into position as you push the sensor into the hole. Do not leave the o-ring up against the shoulder on the sensor and attempt to use the mounting screw to force the o-ring into place. That will not work.
When installing the new sensor I replaced the torx screw with a long bolt and spacer that left the 10 mm hex bolt head just above the heat shield. If you want to try something like this the torx screw thread is M6-1.0. I used a 40 mm bolt. The M6-1.0 threaded mounting hole in the block is a blind hole - it does not go all the way through - so you can't create any new problems by using a longer bolt.
I struggled with the blue connector with the red locking tab. I assumed a two step process was required, first slide the red tab and then second disconnect the connector. Bad assumption. The connector is a dumb design with 45 degree ramps inside the red tab engaging the lugs on the male half of the connector. To get this connector apart you need to lever the red tab out a little then pull up on the connector a little and repeat until the two halves of the connector are separated.Last edited by RDISaab; 18 December 2016 at 02:06.
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28 January 2019 #7
- Join Date
- 23 Jan 2019
- Location
- Washington State, USA
- Posts
- 2
- Saab(s)
- 2007 9-3 SS Anniversary Edition, 2003 9-5 Linear
CPS retention bolt upgrade suceess!
I know this is an older post, but this saved my bacon tonight. I could not for anything get that short torx bolt back tightened down. There's just not enough room, even with the oxygen sensor removed. I was ready to give up and get a former Saab tech over to fix it, when I found this post. I went to my local home improvement store (the one with the orange logo) and was able to find the parts to make the bolt listed above. It still wasn't great, but not impossible like with the short torx screw. I was able to get a 10mm socket with a short 1/4 inch ratchet in the tiny space and tighten it down. I love Saab, but sometimes the engineers should be hit in the knees with bats for making engineering choices like this. Did they never think anyone would need to change the CPS once the engine was installed and all the support piping, wiring, and parts were attached? Ok, now I'm rambling...but that you so much for your post above. Even though you likely will never know how thankful I am, at least it will be officially noted here.
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